Created at 1am, Jan 5
xXbEwwdUScience
1
COASTS AND COASTAL PROCESSES
3lV8JaD4BXThk9O3KeSmUbkDq33avjxtux6qSHEwn1Q
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hnsw
Wave Refraction: As waves approach to shore one end of the wave reaches shallow water first. This end of the wave feels bottom and slows down while the rest of the wave continues at its deep-water speed. As more and more of the wave comes into contact with the bottom, more of the wave slows down. As the wave slows progressively along its length, the wave crest changes its direction and becomes nearly parallel to the shoreline. This process is called wave refraction (dalga krlmas).
id: 85d89ee9a4728fd05d9fc5d49515a9dd - page: 7
Longshore Drift of Sediment: Longshore drift (ky boyu malzeme g/srklenmesi) is the movement of the sediments parallel to shore when waves strike the shoreline at an angle. A wave washing up on the beach at an angle tends to wash sand along at the same angle. After the wave has washed up as far as it can go, the water returns to the sea by running down the beach face by the shortest possible route, that is, straight downhill to the shoreline. Wave run-up is known as swash (yaylma), the return as backwash (geriye yaylma). Rip currents: Rip currents (Yrtlma/Girdap akntlar) are narrow surface currents that flow out to sea through the breaker zone. Deposition along shorelines A beach (plaj/kumsal) is a deposit of unconsolidated sediments extending landward from low to a change in topography such as a line of sand dunes, a sea cliff, or the point where permanent vegetation begins. Beach (Kumsal) (Dune) (Foreshore) (Backshore) (Beach face) (Berms) (High tide level) (Low tide level)
id: 85e0b88c6af6f6518adbc52d29b73849 - page: 8
Seasonal changes in beaches: In winter, the short, high storm waves erode sand from the beach and narrow the berm. Offshore, in less turbulent water, the sediments settles to the bottom, building an underwater sandbar. During summer, low waves wash sand from deeper water onto beach and build out a wide berm. long, Spits (Dil) form where longshore currents deposits sand in deeper water, as at the entrance to a bay. A baymouth bar (Az seti) is simply a spit that has grown until it extends across the mouth of a bay. Tombolo (tombolo) is a bar of sediment connecting a former island to the shore (deposition behind sea stack as refracted waves slow down). Long, narrow islands composed of sand parallel to the shoreline but separated from the mainland by a lagoon are called as barrier islands (set adalar). (Spit) (Tidal inlet) (Barrier island) (Beach ridge) (Barrier island)
id: 891085c44ac3ac32c4e1a09ce8b4d2a9 - page: 11
Shoreline Erosion The impact of water (hydraulic action-hidrolik hareket), abrasion, and the chemical wearing away of rocks (corrosion-korozyon) are responsible for shoreline erosion. Wave-cut Platforms: Sea cliffs (Deniz yar/falez) erode mostly as a result of hydraulic action and abrasion at their base. As a sea cliff is undercut by erosion, the upper part is left unsupported and susceptible to mass wasting processes. Thus sea cliffs retreat little by little, and as they do, they leave a beveled surface known as a wave-cut platform (dalga andrma platformu). Sea Caves, Arches, and Stacks: Wave refraction around headlands causes them to erode on both sides so that sea caves (deniz maaras) form; if caves on the opposite sides of headland join, they form a sea arch (deniz kemeri) (Sea cave) (Sea arch) (Sea stack)
id: d9a49889206775396ed1361948cc5730 - page: 15
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