The vast scale of Suleymaniye Cami can be somewhat overwhelming, but there is plenty of detail to enjoy. Sinan aimed to create beauty through perfection of form rather than lavish decoration Suleyman had been ostentatious during the early years of his reign, but later his dress and his way of life had become more ascetic, Therefore the ornament was rather restrained. Notice, both on the exterior and the interior, the refinement and subtlety of the mouldings around the doors, windows and niches. There ts no elaboration for its own sake; the architects smple aim ts to turn corners gracefully. The grey stone mihrabis quite sober, but a closer {ook at the wall reveals exquisite ting with blossoming trees and birds on the wall beside it. This was the first example of tiles applied over such a wide area. Elsewhere tiles are used sparingly, but they are of the highest quality and provide touches of colour here and there They are of

The beautifully carved minber, of Marmara marble, is surprisingly plain. Inscriptions over doorways picked out in gold, over courtyard windows in blue and white tiles, and painted in the dome are all excellent examples of the calligraphers art. They are probably the work of Cerkes Hasan Celebi. The inscription from the Quran, in the centre of the dome, begins: God is the light of the heavens and the earth. The roundets in the penden tives, radiating from a hub rather like Gothic rose windows, contain Arabic script dynamically integrated with geometric abstraction. The brilliantly colourful glass was made by a craftsman known as Ibrahim the Drunkard The plaster tracery that holds tt in place has been restored, but the glass is mostly original

When you exit the mosque, take a few steps to the right. just above eye {evel on the wall beside you is asundial. Its inctsed lines have almost eroded away, but two bronze elements project from the wall to cast a shadow (see page 81), On turning back to the left you will reach a gate into the walled cemetery on the left. Here are the tombs of Suleyman , whodied tn 1566, and his wife Hurrem, who died before him in 1558. Both are lined with outstandIng iznik tiles and Suleymans, the larger of the two, has a marvellous painted ceiling. Clearly, the erection of the tomb was a key part of the sultans grand design Visible from the Golden Horn and Galata. it is probably the most prominent tomb in istanbul

Having visited the mosque and tombs, itis time to consider their surroundings. Although the street to the southwest 1s mainly given over to tourtst activities, one can get an idea of the original kulliye On the southwest side, behind the shops and cafes, are two buildings constructed as schools of Islamic law. They are now occupied by the Suleymaniye library where an impor tant collection of manuscripts is, available to scholars. Behind the northern end of the row of shops was a medical college, and in the corner a hospital. At the end of the street you wil find steps dawn into a caf in a sunken courtyard Turning fight onto Sifahane Sokagi you will come to the entrance of the kitchen that fed students at the medreses, the poor, and all those who worked in the mosque and the kulliye. Today this 1s a restaurant specialising in traditional Turkish dishes Nextis the former Caravanserai,